Shop Notes · Build Guide

Compound angles for N-sided containers

Give a planter, tub, or vase sloping walls and every corner needs two cuts at once — a miter across the board and a bevel through its thickness. Both come straight out of two short formulas that take the number of sides and how far the walls lean. Here’s where the numbers come from, a table to start from, and how to cut and glue the staves.

01Miter & bevel

The two settings

A flat, straight-walled box needs one angle at each corner: a miter of 180°/N — 45° for four sides, 30° for six — with the blade left square. Lean the walls in or out and that single angle splits in two. The miter (how far you swing the fence) shrinks a little, and a bevel (how far you tilt the blade) appears. Cut both on the mating edges and the leaning walls pull into a closed ring.

θ vertical wall
θ is how far each wall leans from vertical. Zero is a straight-sided box.
A joint runs to the center
A is half the turn at each corner — 180°/N for a regular shape. The joint bisects the corner.
Miter = arctan( cos θ × tan A )
Bevel = arcsin( sin θ × cos A )
θ = wall lean from vertical  ·  A = 180°/N for a regular N-sided shape (or half the turn at any one corner)
02A table to start from

Numbers to start from

Say you want a six-sided planter whose walls lean out 15°. Six sides puts A at 30°. Drop the two into the formulas and you get a miter near 29° and a bevel near 13° — set the fence to 29°, tilt the blade to 13°, and the six staves close up. The table covers the common cases. Read a row, then fine-tune on scrap.

Sides (N)A = 180°/NLean 10° — miter / bevelLean 20° — miter / bevel
445°44.6° / 7.1°43.2° / 14.0°
630°29.6° / 8.6°28.5° / 17.2°
822.5°22.2° / 9.2°21.3° / 18.4°
1215°14.8° / 9.7°14.1° / 19.3°
Saw settings in degrees, for walls leaning 10° and 20° from vertical. Miter = arctan(cos θ × tan A); bevel = arcsin(sin θ × cos A).
Watch the error

A compound joint multiplies a small mistake by the number of sides — half a degree off, across twelve corners, leaves a gap you can see. Cut every setting in scrap and dry-fit the whole ring before you touch the real stock.

03Cutting & gluing

At the saw

Cut both angles in one pass: tilt the table-saw blade to the bevel and set the miter gauge to the miter, or set both on a sliding compound miter saw. Keep one face — the outside — as your reference for every cut, so the bevels all lean the same way.

If the container tapers, each stave is a trapezoid, a little wider at the top than the bottom; its width sets the size of the rim. Glue the ring up with the bevels working for you: lay the staves outside-face-down in a row, run tape across each seam, then roll the strip up so the tape becomes a hinge and the joints close. A band or strap clamp pulls the last seam tight.

six staves, beveled, closed
Arbitrary corners

Nothing here needs the sides to be equal. For an irregular shape, A isn’t 180°/N — use half the turn at each individual corner in the same two formulas, and every joint can carry its own pair of numbers.